Boast of Roman traditional food: mozzarella in carrozza

Mozzarella in carrozza: the original recipe

Like many of Italy’s most delicious recipes, mozzarella in carrozza (“mozzarella in the carriage”) has humble origins too.  The idea comes from the custom among less well-off families, who could not afford to waste food, to use up stale bread and no-longer fresh mozzarella in a new and tasty dish.
Over time the recipe for mozzarella in carrozza conquered Lazio kitchens, to establish itself as a classic too in Roman tradition.
The name “mozzarella in carrozza” refers to the fact that the two slices of bread form the “carriage”, within which the cheese travels.

How to make mozzarella in carrozza


  • 6 slices white bread, crusts removed
  • 1 fist-sized ball mozzarella, cut into approximately 1/4-inch slices, then strips
  • 4 flat anchovy fillets, finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup whole milk
  • 3 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 egg
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup olive oil, for frying


Make sandwiches out of the bread and mozzarella, leaving a little margin around the edges unfilled with cheese and the anchovies fillet,  and press the edges together with your fingers to help seal. Pour the milk into 1 soup bowl, the flour into another, and beat the egg with salt and pepper in another. Warm the oil in the frying pan over medium heat. Dunk the sandwiches briefly, 1 by 1, in the milk, then dredge in the flour, then dip in the beaten egg. Fry in hot oil on each side until crisp and golden and remove to a paper towel.

What to do and where to eat in Rome: Piazza Farnese

Are you in Rome? Would you like to know what to do and where to eat in Piazza Farnese? Then this article is for you.

Piazza Farnese: a little bit of history

The story of this square begins in the XVI century, when the cardinal Alessandro Farnese bought a lot of houses to demolish them, in order to create the right space to build the palace he made Antonio da Sangallo to project.
The palace was finished in 1546 by Michelangelo, and today Palazzo Farnese is famous to be the French Embassy.
This is one of the most important and central square of the district, because here join 8 of the biggest and most important streets.
Right on the square, the most famous buildings, more than Palazzo Farnese, are the church of Santa Brigida and the two twins fountains, built in 1466, they were the firsts purely ornamental fountains of Rome, since the area wasn’t sufficiently served by the aqueducts.

When to go

My suggestion is to come to visit this wonderful square when you can visit even Palazzo Farnese; since today it’s the French Embassy, the palace is not opened to visitors every day, but they organize some tours, usually on Monday Wednesday and Friday afternoon, but since they might change, you should better look on the website and book the tour some days before.

What to eat

If you’re visiting the square during the morning, you should totally go see the market in Campo de’ Fiori and taste some of the best vegetables and fruit we buy every day and that you can find here.
If it’s afternoon or evening, you can have a wonderful aperitivo (happy hour) or dinner in one of the various restaurants of the district.

Where to eat in Piazza Farnese

If you’re walking around in the morning, stop at the market in Campo de’ Fiori and taste a sample of our best seasonal fruit or vegetables. Remember that in Rome you don’t need to buy water all the time, if you have an empty bottle you can always refill it at the Nasone, the small fountains from which you can always drink (and, in this case, are useful even to wash your fruit).
If you want to have dinner, you can’t leave this area without a taste of the best  pasta carbonara of Rome at La Carbonara (Piazza Campo de’ Fiori).
If it’s very hot outside, you should go get yourself one of the most particular and tasty gelato of Rome at Punto Gelato (Via dei Pettinari 43), where the strange recipes invented by the Chef and owner Günther, will make you fall in love with Italian gelato and will make you understand the differences between gelato and ice cream.

How to reach it

Since it’s quite a central area, it’s very simple to reach it. You can easily arrive here with all the buses that stop in Corso Vittorio Emanuele, like the 40 and the 64, and then walk for like 400 meters.
If you’re walking around and you find yourself in Piazza Navona or close to the area, you just need to walk a bit and to cross Campo de’ Fiori and you will get right into Piazza Farnese.

Contact us

Any enquiry about this article? Write to Federica at
Federica is a local foodie and insider, she was born in Rome and studied foreign languages. Meet Federica and join one of our events.

What to do and where to eat in Rome: Campo de’ Fiori

A little bit of history

Campo de’ Fiori is a square situated between Palazzo della Cancelleria and Palazzo Farnese. Campo de’ Fiori in Italian means “field of flowers”, the name was first given during the Middle Age, when the area was actually a meadow.
In Ancient Rome the area was an unused space between Pompey’s Theatre and the flood-prone Tiber. Even though the Orsini established themselves on the south flank of the space in the 13th century, until the 15th century the square remained undeveloped, but in 1456 under Pope Callixtus III, Ludovico Cardinal Trevisani paved the area: this was part of a greater project of improvement of the rione Parione.
The square has always remained a focus for commercial and street culture: the surrounding streets are named for trades—Via dei Balestrari (crossbow-makers), Via dei Baullari (coffer-makers), Via dei Cappellari (hat-makers), Via dei Chiavari (key-makers) and Via dei Giubbonari (tailors).
Executions used to be held publicly in Campo de’ Fiori. Here, on 17 February 1600, the philosopher Giordano Bruno was burnt alive for heresy, and all of his works were placed on the Index of Forbidden Books by the Holy Office. In 1889 Ettore Ferrari dedicated a monument to him, today famous as the Giordano Bruno statue, on the exact spot of his death.
During the day, this square hosts one of the most famous markets of Rome, and at night, Campo de’ Fiori is a nightlife meeting place for tourists and young people coming from the whole city.

When to go

The perfect period to come and visit this area is spring or summer, so you can enjoy the beautiful market and all the shops in the surrounding streets.
The best part of the day to come and walk in this district is definitely the morning, because the market is opened from 7 a.m. till 2 p.m., so you can visit it and enjoy the amazing food we have and you can learn a lot of things on our culinary traditions.
When the market closes, in this square begins the aperitivo time. All the restaurants and bars in the square organize the “happy hour”, where you can drink and eat at the buffet whatever you want. It’s a very common social event between young people, and this is one of the best place for the best aperitivo.

What to eat

This is one of the most famous area for restaurants and bars. If you’re walking around these streets and you get hungry you can try some pizza or if you want to have dinner you should get some carbonara, one of the most famous pasta of Rome (and of Campo de’ Fiori).
Since this is one of the district of the nightlife in Rome, you will find a lot of bars and gelaterie, so you have to try our espresso or an amazing cup of original and 100% artisanal Italian gelato.

Where to eat

Some of the best restaurants and food shops of this area are not right on the square, but for sure the best restaurant in Campo de’ Fiori is La Carbonara, where you can taste one of the best carbonara of Rome.
There are other amazing places near Campo de’ Fiori, like for example Roscioli (a pretty new restaurant in Via dei Giubbonari 21, opened by the owner of the Antico Forno Roscioli, an amazing forno where you can eat the best pizza rossa of Rome), and Camponeschi (in Piazza Farnese 50, right next to the French Embassy).
If you don’t want to have lunch or dinner, but you’ve been walking for hours and you need a break, a coffee and something to eat, you should definitely go to Caffé Perù (Via di Monserrato, 46, opened since 1933); but if it’s summer and it’s way too hot for coffee, you should go get yourself one of the most particular and tasty gelato of Rome at Punto Gelato (Via dei Pettinari, 43), where the strange recipes invented by the Chef and owner Günther, will make you fall in love with Italian gelato and will make you understand the differences between gelato and ice cream.
The perfect place for the aperitivo is Obicà, right on the square of Campo de’ Fiori (aperitivo time is usually between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m.).

How to reach it

This area is situated between Via dei Giubbonari and Piazza della Cancelleria, you can easily get there with all the buses that stop in Corso Vittorio Emanuele (like for example the 40 or the 64), and from there you can walk for 200 m directly into the square.

Contact us

Any enquiry about this article? Write to Valeria at love @ gourmetaly. com.  Valeria is a local foodie and insider, she studied Archaeology with a PhD in Numismatics. Meet Valeria joining one of our events.